How to Shave with a Straight Razor (and What to Know About Them)

Daunting as the straight razor may be, there’s good reason that a lot of guys choose to mimic this barbershop style shave at home.

Consider the benefits of shaving with a straight razor: Straight razors deliver one of the closest, cleanest shaves (comparable even to safety razors), especially when using replaceable blades. With proper technique, a single sharp blade cuts closer than multi-blade cartridges while reducing drag, irritation, and ingrown hairs. 

There is a learning curve, though. Professional barbers can execute the shave more efficiently and often turn it into a more comfortable, hot-towel experience. Still, for the guy who is determined to master the art for himself, here are some tips—in a video we shot with Blind Barber’s own head educator, Eric Becker.

You can watch the clip here, or scroll on to learn more about straight razors and everything to know–especially how to use them:

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Different Types of Straight Razors

There are a few ways to classify straight razors:

Handle Design: Folding razors are the traditional “cut-throat” style, while straight, non-folding versions are called kamisori razors.

Disposable: Straight razors with disposable blades stay sharper, are more hygienic, and can be swapped frequently to avoid buildup or dullness. 

Detailing: Smaller straight razors are designed for precision work: cleanup, edging, or dermaplaning. Don’t use them for your actual full-face shave.

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Straight Razor Terms to Know

Blade: The cutting edge itself. Straight razors can have fixed blades or disposable/replaceable ones, and vary by grind, point, and width depending on control and use case.

Blade Grind: This refers to how the blade tapers to its edge. Beginners should stick with thinner profiles (full or extra hollow ground), which are the most common and easiest to control.

Blade Points: The tip shape varies. Rounded points are safest for at-home shaving, while sharper points are better left to professionals.

Blade Width: Typically 4/8 to 6/8 inch. Most guys will want 5/8 inch, with coarser hair benefiting from slightly wider blades.

Tang: The small metal section between the blade and handle that you grip for control during the shave.

Handle (Scales): The folding portion that houses the blade when closed and provides balance when shaving.

Tail (Shank/Monkey Tail): The curved extension at the end of the tang, used for finger placement and added control.

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How to Hold a Straight Razor

Here is Becker’s instruction on holding the razor.

• Hold the handle between your thumb and first two fingers, with your pinky resting on the curved tail at the end for balance.
• Guide the razor from the tang (the narrow grip section between blade and handle).
• Let the razor’s weight provide the pressure; don’t push or press the blade into your skin.
• Keep skin taut and tilt your head into each stroke.
• Use small strokes with this type of razor (no springs or pivots built in to help).

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How to Do a Straight Razor Shave At Home

Here is the entire regimen for shaving at home with a straight razor; you can refer again to the video above for visuals.

1. Make sure your blade is sharp.

Never use a dull blade. Swap them out frequently or practice proper razor hygiene.

2. Start by washing your face with cleanser and warm water.

The warmth will pre-soften the hair and prepare the skin. Keep the blade hot, too (under hot running water throughout the shave, while rinsing blade between strokes).

3. Apply pre-shave oil (optional) plus shave cream / gel.

The combination of pre-shave oil, shave cream / gel will provide lubrication and nourishment to prevent irritation.

4. Apply the shave cream / gel in small circular motions.

If you are new to shaving, using your hands (instead of a brush) will help you learn/feel your growth patterns, while also lifting the hairs for a smoother shave. 

5. Shave with the grain (in the direction of hair growth).

Becker’s preferred process:

• Right side / left side
• Upper lip to chin
• Finish on throat / Adam’s apple.

This usually lets you stay in a rhythm of how hair typically grows. 

6. After shaving, wipe away excess cream with hot water or clean, hot towel.

Check for any strays. Nix ‘em. Don’t shave over raised moles; just trim those after.

7. Apply cold water (a cold towel compress works too).

This allows your pores to close up and your skin to relax. 

8. Then apply aftershave.

This soothes any irritation before closing up the pores. 

9. Apply moisturizer. (If the aftershave doesn’t double as one.)

Moisturizer fortifies and nourishes skin.

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Watch More: How to Do a Hot Towel Shave